Capitol Peak NW Buttress (14,130') Sept. 4, 2010
Capitol Peak's NW Ridge is a Challenging Grade IV Alpine Rock route at high altitude, rated at 5.9. I recruited my good friend Sunny to climb the spectacular granite route with me. The photos are below:
View of the NW Buttress route from Capitol Lake. The entire route follows the ridge up from the saddle and heads left along the skyline. We climbed the route in about 10 150m pitches, with three simul-climbs.
Our route is labeled in red above, and the pitches are numbered.
Heading up the 2nd pitch at 8am.
Simulclimbing above the initial 5.9 pitches at 13,000' on the way to the Unicorn Arete (9am).
Sunny at the Belay site at the top of Unicorn Arete (end of pitch 8) before we swapped and simulclimbed to the base of the summit Pyramid. (3pm).
Getting ready to do the final 2 pitches near the summit.
Sunny cresting the summit ridge about 5pm.
Excellent summit shot over towards Snowmass...
Returning to camp via the Knife Edge.
Getting back to camp by dark!
Leaving camp to hike out the next morning.
Leaves are starting to change! Barely.....