Climb Your Everest - "No Off Days": Inspire Yourself to be Great with Dr. Jon!
My Blog

May 2012

Post #36 Getting the Facts Right

Getting the Facts Right and Honoring Teammate David O'Brien
 May 31, 2012
Inaccuracies in the Media
Ladies and Gentlemen, 
I've finally made it back to Kathmandu Nepal, safely returning from the Khumbu, and only 5 Days from standing on the Summit of the World.  I have been finally made aware about all of the tremendous support and all of the well wishes from people all over the U.S. and the world who were pulling for me to get to the Top of Everest. THe blog comments and support will still take days to sift through, but thanks so much!

Post #35: Back in Basecamp: Shower & Shave

Talked with Jon this morning - he's back safe in Basecamp (17,100ft).  
"I need a shower and a shave", he joked, "And, i'm skinnier than you've ever seen me....even skinnier than after our sleeping on the summits project last summer."  That's saying a lot, because I remember that!  I have a feeling Jon's mom will change all that with some great home-cooked food.

I congratulated Jon on essentially climbing Everest twice - with two very different outcomes.

Post #34: SUMMIT! On Top of the World

Received word late that Jon officially reached the summit of Mount Everest!  
Jon summited very early with Jangbu Sherpa: 3:30am Nepal-time, 3:45pm Colorado-time.  Summit winds were reported as "Light to dead-calm".  It was indeed a perfect weather window, something that was missing a week prior when the jet stream backed itself directly over the summit.

Congratulations, Jon!  You've worked hard for years to reach this goal.  We've climbed hundreds of mountains together, slept on 58 Colorado Fourteener summits and wrote a book, and talked for hours about what it would be like to stand at over 29,000ft gazing across the horizon admiring the Parallax Effect.

Post #33: Today is Summit Day

A brief update on Jon's progress - Jon's summit window is today.

It's 5pm-ish on Everest and Jon's in his tent at Camp 4, 26,000ft, eating and drinking.  Jon will depart Camp 4 around 9pm and head to the summit as a team of four.  Jon, Arnold Coster team guide, and two Sherpa.  Weather is favorable....summit winds around 30mph.  Numerous climbers summitted yesterday reporting winds under 40mph.  I just checked the weather maps, and he's got 12-24 hours to make it happen.

Post #32: 2nd Summit Attempt: Climb of a Lifetime

Talked with Jon this morning at-length.  He's packed, primed, and highly motivated for a 2nd attempt at the summit of Mt. Everest.  A climb of a lifetime.
The good news: Jon's plan is more well-suited to how we typically climb mountains together: Light & Fast.  It's a philosophy we used and perfected during our groundbreaking summer project,
Sleeping on the Summits: Colorado 14er High Bivys
.  Jon will be joined by two very fast, strong Sherpas according to team guide Arnold Coster.

Post #31: "Back Into the Death Zone": 2nd Summit Attempt

Had a good conversation with Jon this morning.  He's still battling demons but has recovered physically.  In spite of what has happened, Jon is ready to make a 2nd summit attempt...heading back into the "Death Zone" (above 26,000ft). 

Jon said the word around Basecamp is that up to 7 people may have died during the horrific 48-hour weather window on the 19-20th.  Teams are still trying to locate clients and Sherpa.  What happened?  The jet stream all of sudden backed itself over the summit.

Post #30: Summit Tragedy

Talked with Jon this morning.  The situation up there is being compared to the 1996 Tragedy Jon Krakauer wrote about in his book,
Into Thin Air
.  Jon confirmed 5 deaths and some folks still missing.  Jon saw four of the bodies near the summit but below the balcony.  The 1996 disaster claimed 8 lives during the main summit window when bad weather moved in. 

Jon said there was a 2 hour wait at one of the main chokepoints near the summit.  High winds moved in an trapped folks who were ascending and descending.

Post #29: Summit Update

Haven't heard directly from Jon yet.  Based on the reports coming in, his Team did not make the summit and may have aborted due to a combination of 300 climbers on the route and high winds returning.  It was a short two day window with winds under 30mph.  Winds ramped up to 40mph on the 20th.  Most teams will not attempt a summit unless the winds are below 30mph.
I just emailed his Team an updated weather forecast.  The next good summit window is May 25-26.  
We're hearing conditions were brutal from Camp 4 to the Summit on the 19th-20th.

Post #28: Top of the World: Ascending to the Summit

Recieve this update fromSummit ClimbExpedition Guide Arnold Coster (Jon's expedition):
 
Tomorrow we will head off to camp 3 at 7200m to start our summit attempt.
The weather is looking good for 19 and 20th, but this morning over 300
climbers sett off to try to summit on the 19th. We will avoid this summit
madness by going for the 20th as well for Everest as Lhotse. The plan is to
summit early morning of the 20th and get back down to C2 the same day, but
first we have to get up at Camp 3 tomorrow and Camp 4 around 8000m the

Post #27: Summit Time! Prelude to a Championship

Post 27: Prelude to a Championship.
 
Update the Morning of May 15.  After hearing about the weather, the conditions on the mountain, consulting and listening to what other teams here are planning and considering the weather window for summiting, May 20 is our Target Date.  The 18 (Friday) Winds are forecast to drop below 15mph above 8000m/26000’. 

A small team of Sherpas and about 50 people from various teams will be climbing on that day as the final ropes are fixed above the South Summit to the Top of the World.
RSS Follow Become a Fan

Delivered by FeedBurner


Recent Posts

Post #118 - Climb and Ski of Longs Peak 14,256' - Fri April 11, 2014
Post #117 - April Fools! Climbing and Skiing!
Post #116: Summitting Aconcagua 6969m/22,841’ Tue February 18th 2014.
Post #115 - Rest day and limited access to technology
Post #114: Off to Aconcagua, Schedule

Categories

2012 Travels and Book Events
2013 14ers and Everest
2013 Skiing off Summits 14ers/13ers
2013-2014 Winter Season Skiing Mountaineering
Aconcagua 2014
Colorado 14ers
Colorado 14ers: High Bivys Project 2011
Everest 2012
Pakistan 2013
Six Nutrition
Skiing off Summits
Sleeping on the Summits II CA 14ers
powered by